Tuesday, September 4, 2007

Mail z Indie - 3

Ahoj, /cast mailu je psana vcera - tj. v Pondeli, jeste v Rishikesi,
dopisujeme to dnes, v Utery nekde jinde, tak snad to nebude moc
zmateny....a zase to psala Paja a ja dopisoval:-)/

tentokrat vas zdravime z Rishikeshe, kde jsme stravili posledni tri
dny a aspon trochu si tu odpocli od beznyho indickyho hluku, smradu,
zmatku... no proste od typickeho indickeho zivota. Puvodne jsme odtud
meli jet do Himalaji, ale uz kdyz sme videli Gangu po ceste z vlaku,
nam bylo jasny, ze na hory asi nepojedem. A kdyz nam pani domaci v
hotelu rekla, ze ted cestou na hory zuchl do reky plnej bus, chut nas
presla uplne...Pry ze mame tak 3-4 dny pockat, jestli se to nezlepsi,
ale zatim tady skoro kazdej den vecer prisla prutrz mracen a hladina
hodne rozvodnene Gangy se zase o kus zvedla, na horach to je jeste
horsi a hlavne na tech hlinenejch cestach hrozi sesuvy pudy a tak, no
proste hnus, vsichni rikaj, ze tady 5-6 let nebyl skoro zadnej dest v
monzumovym obdobi, ale tento rok je to zase desne moc...proste mame
smulu, no:-( Takze navstevu Himalaji nechavame na nekdy jindy...:-(
Ale je tu i tak pekne, jsme sice jen 300 metru vysoko, ale kolem jsou
vsude lesy a kopce (Rishikesh je v miste kde Ganga vyteka z Himalaji,
je tu krasne videt, jak konci kopce a reka se rozliva do nekonecnych
nizin, no a tak muzeme aspon rict, ze sme byli na kraji Himalaji:-)) a
je tu klid a cistej vzduch, takze parada. Jinak se sem jezdi
meditovat, ucit se jogu, hrat na vsemozny exoticky hudebni nastroje
atd. takze tu dost lidi zustava treba 6 tydnu. A na nas se pak divaji
jak na blazny, ze jsme tu jen na 4 noci a taky ze nemeditujeme a
nejogujeme:-)

Tak, toto jsme psali vcera jeste v Rishikesi, ted jsme ale o kus dal,
v Mussorie, takze ten horni odstavec berte jen jako ze se nam uz
nechtel mazat...:-) A ted neco planu na budoucich par /ty/dnu, co nas
jeste ceka.../uz jsme zarezervovali skoro vsechny vlaky, az do konce
cesty, i tak jich uz dost bylo zcela plnych, takze jsme museli trochu
menit plany, nekde zustat dyl a pockat az se uvolni, no celkem otrava
tady s tou dopravou, jak je to tady velky a Indu je jak much...:-)/

Takze ty plany /asi spis pro rodice, at vite, kde ze budem.../

Zitra vecer se presuneme na jeden a neco den do Amritsaru, na SV u
hranic s Pakistanem, pak do Varanasi a okoli, tam se par dni zdrzime a
pak uz se budeme pomalu ale jiste sunout pres par mest a dve krasny
jeskyne na jih k Bombaji, odtam pak jeste chceme jet na par dni na Jih
uzivat si u more...

Jinak mame jeden velmi podstatny novy poznatek, ktery se tyka
exkrementu, kterych v indii potkavame skutecne velke mnozstvi co do
poctu i druhu, v tomto pripade exkrementu lidskych /mozna to vypada ze
jsme asi pekny prasatka, ze to porad piseme, ale kdo tu nebyl,
nepochopi, jakej je tu smrad a kolik se toho vali na ulici a okoli.../
No co clovek vsechno rano z vlaku z Agry nevidi...:-) Puvodne jsme
mysleli, ze ti Indi na kolejich jen posedavaji, ale pri dukladnejsim
pozorovani jsme zjistili, ze nemaji kalhoty a ze vsichni kolektivne
tlaci na jedne koleji a koukaji na vlak jedouci po koleji vedlejsi.
Dale jsou tlacicich indu plne strane, policka a ostatni prostory kolem
trate, co nejsou primo uprostred mesta a co nejsou vyasfaltovany.
Kazdy ind ma vedle sebe kyblik s vodou, ktery slouzi misto toaletniho
papiru. A kdyz prsi, ve druhe ruce drzi nad sebou destnik:-) Jinak z
vlaku to pusobi jako celkem "sranda", ale kdyz pak ma clovek jit nekam
mimo mesto - napriklad na vyhled na Taj Mahal z druhe strany reky -
viz dale v mailu - tak je to docela narocny slalom...:-) Tak to bylo
dost tech fekalnosti a dalsi uz psat nebudeme, slibujeme...:-)

Jeste jsme chteli napsat, jak tu ozebracujeme mistni "obchodniky"
/aneb "Pokud nechces byt obran svini, bud jeste vetsi svine" :-)/:
Pote co jsme prijeli do Agry, coz je nejhorsi a nejhnusnejsi mesto co
jsme zatim kde potkali, jsme sli do "obchodu" koupit neco malo vod a
limonad na osvezeni...no a mistni "obchodnik-podvodnik" si za to rekl
asi dvojnasobnou cenu /nutno podotknout, ze se nam to tu stalo jen
zatim jednou/, jenze ten "obchodnik-podvodnik" jaksi nepocital s tim,
ze nejsme /aspon snad/ tak blbi a ze vime, ze na kazde potravine, je
napsana cena MRP, coz je maximalni cena za ten produkt, takze jsme se
s nim dohadovali tak dlouho, az kyvnul na tu spravnou cenu...no a kdyz
jsme pak sli v Agre nakupovat, vzdy to bylo k tomuto "obchodnikovi-uz
ne podvodnikovi", protoze narozdil od ostatnich
"obchodniku-podvodniku" jako jedinej zcela nepochopitelne najednou
rikal spravnou cenu i pres to, ze jsme "blbi" turisiti:-) /nutno
podotknout, ze nas skoro pokazdy probodaval ocima:-)/...kazdopadne ta
MRP cena je velmi uzitecna vec...:-)

Tak a ted uz par zazitku z cesty...

Cesta vlakem z Jodhpuru do Agry /viz predchozi mail/ pekne utekla,
vlak mel kupodivu jen asi hodinu zpozdeni a cekani na nadrazi v
Jodhpuru nam zprijemnovali okolo pobihajici asi deseticentimetrovi
broucci /s trochou stesti nam vlezli do batohu a privezeme vam je
ukazat/ a hromada zebraku...Prvni dojem z Agry pro zmenu hrozny smrad
a debilni riksak, co nas odvezl uplne jinam, nez sme chteli, ale to se
v tak turistickym miste dalo cekat, ze to bude sama svine...Kazdopadne
z tucne provize za to ze nas hodil k jeho smluvnimu drahymu hotelu nic
nemel, protoze jsme si ten hotel nevzali a sli uplne nekam jinam, ale
nastve to, protoze rekl, ze jsme u "Western gate", kam jsme chteli
puvodne jet a pritom nas hodil asi o kilometr jinam, tak nas pekne
zmatl a dost nam trvalo, nez jsme nasli nejaky rozumny hotel...takze
jsem nasli hotel, po tech extra levnych a peknych, co sme v
predchozich mestech meli to byl celekm hnus a jeste trochu drazsi, ale
to je proste Agra...Odpoledne jsme se byli podivat u toho slavnyho Taj
Mahalu /ktery jsme meli asi 100m od hotelu, akorat, ze ten Taj Mahal
je uprostred hezkyho arealu a kolem nej je takova naprosto nechutna,
spinava smrduta ctvrt.../, zjistili jsme ze jsou to fakt takovy
zlodeji, ze po nas budou zas vstup chtit 750rupek za osobu /asi 380Kc/
a pak jsme byli v parku, kde celekem nic nebylo, ale nezapomneli ho
pro turisty tucne zpoplatnit, protoze odtam je vyhled na Taj
mahal...:-( Po veceri (a mym prvnim
jogurtovo-ovocnym-korenenym-mlicnym "Lassi", na ktery jsem si troufla
a zcela ve zdravi prezila:-)) jsme sli spat...Dalsi den jsme se
poradne vyspali, poflakovali se po bazarech v okoli Taj mahalu a
dlouho snidali. Odpoledne jsme chteli jet busem na vylet do Fatehpur
Sikri, coz je pamatka UNESCO, par celekem hezkych mesit, palacu a
jinych budov, ovsem za opet tucny vstupny. Tak jsme cekali na
autobusaku, ze pry tam za hodinu pojede bus. No kdyz nam za hodinu
zase rekli ze za hodinu to pojede, radsi jsme se na to vybodli, prece
jen by sme na prohlidku tam meli uz jen asi hodinu a jeste bysme
utratili hromadu penez za vstupny...kazdopadne jsme pak v hotelu v
pruvodcovi zjistili, ze ty autobusy asi nejezdi z toho nadrazi, ale
vne zdi nadrazi, jen nam to tam jaksi nebyl vubec nikdo schopny sdelit
a to jsme se tam hodinu vyptavali na ten bus kdekoho...stane se, to k
cestovani patri...:-) Tak jsme z autobusaku sli hledat banku, aby sme
meli dostatek penez na nadchazejici oslavy narozenin a svatku
/Pajinky/:-) Celekem jsme se divili, kde vsude jde smlouvat, ale kdyz
jsme se v bance podivali na kurz a chteli odejit hledat neco jinyho,
protoze se nam zdal blbej, tak nas chlap zastavil, ze si mame rict,
jakej kurz chceme. No skoda, ze nejsme vetsti drsnaci, sme si rekli
akorat trochu vyssi, takovej jak jsme tu menili poprve...Pak jsme se
jeste byli podivat za Taj Mahalem u reky, je to asi jediny misto v
Agre, kde se da podivat na Taj Mahal, aniz by clovek musel platit
nejaky pitomy vstupny do "parku" atd....nutno podotknout, ze toto
misto neni na zadne mape ani v pruvodci znaceny, ale az si toho nekdo
vsimne, tak to urcite zpoplatni...:-( Jinak Agra je cistotne mesto,
lide tam tolik nehazi odpadky na ulici jako jinde, ale donesou je v
igelitce k rece a tam je vysypou, nebo do ni hodi celou tu igelitku.
Dale jsme nasli super levnou hospodu, kde moc dobre varili, tak sme
meli aspon vystarano i na dalsi dny v Agre...obsluhoval tam takovej
bezva deda a malej kluk, umeli par slov anglicky a byla s nima celkem
sranda, akorat ten klucina podvadel, kdyz jsme s nim hrali
piskvorky...:-) Rano jsme brzo vstavali a vlakem jsme prejeli do
Mathury, coz je mesto lezici u reky Yamuny a je to svate misto
hinduistu. Na nadrazi se na nas jako vsude vrhlo stado riksaku, ale
vsichni chteli desny ceny za kousek do mesta - pry 7km, ale bylo to
tak 2km - tak jsme sli radsi do "centra" pesky...Prosli jsme si
bazary, posedavali na ghatech - schodech u reky a okukovali, jak se v
ni indi koupou, pijou, pomazavaji svatym bahnem a kdovi co jeste. Taky
jsme byli na pulhodinove vyjizdce na lodce po rece - aspon neco, kdyz
primeho kontaktu s vodou se porad jeste bojime...:-) Potom jsme
prejeli do vedlejsi vesnice Vrindavanu /opet celkem zabavne, v Mature
jsou riksaci opet celkem svine a snazi se turisty natahnout, tak jsme
se v jednom obchudku zeptali, kolik je normalni cena za cestu na
"autobusak", a ten prodavac, ze nam tu riksu domluvi, za Indickou
cenu, ovsem ty **** jak slyseli, ze maji vest cizince, tak na tu cenu
ani tomu prodavacovi nechteli kyvnout, ale nakonec se zadarilo...:-)/
Do Vrindavanu jsme prejeli novym dopravnim prostredkem - vikramem -
coz je takova velka autoriksa, do ktere se vejde cca. 8-15 /maximalne
co jsme videli/ lidi, s tim, ze to funguje jako MHD za pevnou
cenu...Jinak Vrindavan je normalni indicka "dira" akorat je plna
chramu, protoze to je take svate misto hinduistu...Pak jsme se
presunuli zpatky do Mathury na vlak a vecer jsme zcela utahani,
hladovi a ziznivi dojeli do Agry /tentokrat jsme nemeli s vlakem tolik
stesti, protoze na hodine cesty z Mathury, odkud vyjizdel, do Agry
nabral solidni hodinove zpozdeni:-)/. V Agre cela ctvrt kde jsme meli
hotel byla pozavirana a celkove mrtva, nastesti nas do te hospody, kde
jsme byli predchozi den pustili, ikdyz neoficialne, jinak bysme asi
padli hlady a zizni, protoze jinak bylo uplne vse zavreny. Predchozi
noc tam byla nejaka slavnost a nejak se porvali muslimi s hinduistama
a policajti nekoho asi pri uklidnovani udajne postrileli, tak meli
mistnaci neco jako zakaz vychazeni. A celkem to tam vojaci hlidali a
neustale vse zavirali i dalsi den, takze to pusobilo trochu podivne a
depresivne...Ale melo to vyhodu, protoze ve ctvrtek rano jsme byli
konecne v Taj Mahalu a meli jsme ho temer jen pro sebe, protoze
turisty ty nepokoje odradily a Taj Mahal navstivilo ve ctvrtek jen asi
4500lidi misto 20000 /vetsina z nich byli Indi, protoze je vstupny
stoji 15rupek a to maji v cene vstunyho flasku vody za 12 rupek:-(/
Stravili jsme tam aspon tri hodiny, a ikdyz to bylo desne drahy, za ty
prachy to stalo, bylo to vazne hezky. Jo, taky jsme meli ve ctvrtek
dobrou snidani (palacinku:-)) a k obedu spagety a celkove jsme si
Pajincin narozeninovy den uzivali a cpali se:-) Po obede jsme si
jeli/sli prohlidnout zbytek pamatek v Agre, znamou Cervenou pevnost
ale uz jenom zvenku, protoze je tam vstupny fakt hodne predrazeny. Do
ctvri, kde jsou bazary a hezka mesita nas vojaci projistotu
nepusitili, pry kvuli nepokojum moc dangerous:-( Akorat jeste do
maleho Taj Mahalu na druhe strane reky jsme si zaplatili vstupny, ale
oproti pravymu Taj Mahalu za moc nestal...potom jsme chteli pokracovat
po druhe strane reky a podivat se na vyhled na Taj Mahal a aby byle
zmena, misto riksi jsme si vzali nakladni konsky povoz /puvodne jsme
chteli vzit riksu, ale riksak nam rekl, ze ma caj a domluvil nam toho
konika:-)/. Jeste ted me boli zadek, ale u mistnaku jsme meli uspech,
vsude kde sme projizdeli nadsene mavali a bezeli za nama:-) U reky
jsme si kousek od placenyho turistickyho vyhledu /za 100RP/os:-(/
nasli vyslapanou /a notne posranou/ cesticku k vode, kde jsme si
zdarma uzili krasny pohled na na tlacici indy, reku a Taj Mahal v
pozadi:-) Taky stoji za zminku, ze ackoli v Indii vetsina lidi nezna
Ceskou republiku /maximalne Ceskoslovensko/, u te reky vsichni vedeli,
kde je CR a rikali, ze tam chodi hodne lidi z CR.../ale jinak jsme v
Indii za celou dobu potkali akorat ty zminovane cechy v Dilli a pak uz
nikoho/ No a potom uz nasledovala slavnostni vecere, cely kuratko a
spousty hranolek, az jsme malem pukli:-)
Rano jsme museli zase brzo vstavat, v sedm nam jel vlak do Haridwaru.
Byla to otrava, celej den ve vlaku, navic celou dobu prselo a na hodne
mistech byly desne zatopeny pole a zaplavy, takze nam uz zacinalo byt
jasny, ze na hory asi nepojedem...V sest sme dojeli do Haridwaru a
podarilo se nam hned jeste chytit bus do Rishikeshe /opet
Rikso-srandiste na nas neuspesne pokrikovali: 1.riksak: "autobusak je
zavrenej, vemte si riksu", 2.riksak: "vemte si risku, velmi levny, za
200Rupek /bus stoji 17Rp// a kolem osme jsme konecne meli najitej
hotel. Byl to takovej rodinnej hotylek, vsichni pani domaci rikali
"mama", a ona nas oslovovala "daughter" a "son", ale celkem jsme si
zvykli:-) Taky kazdy vecer delala pro vsechny veceri, za dobrou cenu a
snez co snis, tak jsme si vsechny 4 vecery uzivali moc dobry domaci
thali /ryze, placky Capati, zeleninove kari na sto zpusobu, lusteniny
Dal a pak treba "bramborovy salat"/ a pekne se prejidali:-) Dalsi den
jsme odpocivali, byli se projit u reky Gangy a vecer jsme si po vzoru
mistnaku koupili kyticky s vonnyma tycinkama na misce a zapaleny je
poslali po vode, akorat se nam hned utopili...ale napit a potrit
oblicej vodou z Gangy sme radsi odmitli. /jak kdo, ja - M - jsem do te
reky vlezl po kolena a prezil - zatim...:-)/ Dalsi den jsme se
poflakovali po meste, kolem reky a po hinduistickych chramech a nasli
konecne hezci cast mesta, kterou jsme den pred tim jaski minuli a taky
krasny most pres reku plnej opicek:-) Celkove je tu porad desne moc
opicek a maji spoustu mladatek a jsou fakt super (takze pro - P -
mamku: krome parkoviste na slona nam prosim vyhrad jeste nejaskou
mistnost pro opicky, aspon par tech malinkych si privezeme:-)). No a
velkou cast dne sme taky stravili rezervovanim vlaku, takze to uteklo
jak voda.
Vcera jsme si busem zajeli do Haridwaru. Okukovali jsme jak se tam ti
indi cvachtaj v te spinave vode, ktera je pro ne svata, prosli mistni
trhy a vybehli si na kopec do chramu /Pajinka totiz odmitla jet
lanovkou, ktera mela zvuk jak Tata autobus:-)/. V mistnim
hinduistickym chramu je to takova velka pout, po ceste k nemu se
prodavaji igelitovy pytlicky s kokosem, masli, vonnyma tycinkama a
kdovicim jeste, ve chramu je pak hromada dalsich stanku s
hinduistickyma DVDckama, CDckama, obcerstvenim apod. Pote v hlavnim
chramu clovek jde, dostane "carku" mezi oci, zaplati par drobaku, dal
mu rozseknou kokos a kdovi co jeste, clovek si tam udela takovy svaty
kolecko proste, tezko se popisuje, atmosfera je tam ale super:-) Potom
jsme se bez problemu vratili zpet do Rishikeshe, naposledy prosli
mesto a vecer se pak u reky zucastnili vecerniho uctivani reky -
hromada mnichu, indu a cumilu sedelo u reky na schodech, zpivalo,
poustelo ty misticky s kytickama po rece, modlili se a opet tam byla
super atmosfera...treba bude neco z fotek, blbe se to popisuje a uz
nemame moc casu...Dnes rano jsme se po snidani vydali na autobusak a
prejeli z Rishikeshe do Dehradunu a od tam do Mussorie. Ta druha cast
cesty byla celkem silena, vyjizdeli jsme z asi 600 metru do 2000, ty
kopce jsou tu hrozne strmy, jsou to uz vlastne Himalaje, takze je to
sama silena zatacka, uzoucka silnic a hroznej provoz Tata autobusu,
Tata nakladaku a Tata jeepu. Takze se ted uz hrozne tesime na zitrejsi
cestu dolu, ta cesta je urcite o dost horsi nez prejezd vysokyho
Atlasu v Maroku...:-) Taky byli kolem silnice porad zabavny cedulky
jako "speed thrills, but kills" nebo "drinking whisky, driving
risky"...Mussorie je krasny maly mestecko, pokud je hezky, je odtud
videt na 6000 metrovy kopce o kus dal, kam jsme puvodne chteli jet a
taky je to mesto vystaveny Anglicanama, takze je tu tak docela
evropska atmosfera, klid, celkem cisto, no proste fajn...jen skoda ze
jsme porad v mraku /a ted zacalo pekne prset/, takze jsme si moc,
respektive vubec neuzili vyhledu. Ale treba zitra dopoledne nez
odjedeme, se aspon na chvili vycasi...

Tot asi vse, mejte se hezky, tesime se na odpovedi, dalsi mail posleme
asi z Varanasi...

TED JESTE NECO K FOTKAM:

Fotky jsou na teto adrese: http://picasaweb.google.com/mtb.matysek

Je jich tam celkem dost, ale tentokrat nestihame napsat popisky a ani
poradne nevime co na nich je, protoze to tady poradne nejde
prohlidnout - je tu proste divnej monitor...
Na fotkach by mela byt Agra, Mathura, Vrindavan a cistic usi....fotky
z Haridwaru, vic z Rischikese a Mussorie zatim ne, protoze je mam na
jine karte ve fotaku, tak priste...

Dobrou noc:-)

14 comments:

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